Rolex‘s catalog is full of iconic models. The big secret to Rolex’s success is that they have not messed with the original designs of many of their classics. Rolex has become a legendary brand by regularly updating their watches without changing the characteristics that make them so recognizable in the first place. Obviously, they have also invested extensively in technical developments to ensure their watches are the reliable icons we know today.
But even the biggest legends sometimes need updates. In this article, I would like to shed some light on three watches that could do with a visual update or even a complete makeover. Of course, this is a matter of personal opinion, but who knows? With Watches & Wonders 2022 coming up, we will soon find out whether the watches on this list will be treated to an update. We will keep you posted!
1. Rolex Air-King
If there is one watch in the Rolex collection ready for a replacement, it’s the Rolex Air-King. The current model is a true oddball in the Rolex lineup and has always been very divisive. My guess is that there are more haters than lovers of this timepiece, but the people who love it are very passionate about it. I am not a fan of the watch, so I wouldn’t mind seeing it replaced with something nicer. The Air-King name dates all the way back to 1945. It was initially part of a series of “Air” models produced for the British Royal Air Force. The Rolex Air-King was the only one that remained part of their catalog in the longer term. That is until 2014 when it was discontinued. At the time, the model was not distinctive enough from the Oyster Perpetual and the Explorer. On top of that, the Air-King’s 34-mm size was also outdated for a men’s watch.
Rolex introduced the updated Air-King ref. 116900 in 2016, and it has been part of the collection ever since. The watch features the same 40-mm case as the Rolex Milgauss. The standout feature is, without a doubt, the dial. It combines the iconic Rolex Explorer dial with its 3-6-9 numerals and the analog instruments the brand designed for the Bloodhound SSC jet-powered car. The result is a very quirky, almost un-Rolex dial design.
On top of that, the link between the Air-King name and a race car is a strange plot twist. Last but not least, Rolex has not been involved in the Bloodhound project for some time now, so the active link there is expired. If you ask me, it’s time for an updated Rolex Air-King that restores some of the glory of the previous generation Air-King models in a modern way. The Air-King ref. 5500, on the other hand, is an iconic entry-level watch that is still a great pick if you can wear a 34-mm timepiece. Nevertheless, the Air-King name deserves a proper follow-up to the iconic Air-Kings from the past. Let’s see if that will happen.
2. Rolex Sea-Dweller
This next pick is a controversial one because it’s purely based on personal nostalgia rather than commercial potential. Historically, the Rolex Sea-Dweller has always been the big brother of the iconic Rolex Submariner. When I say big, I’m not talking about size but rather water resistance. In the past, both the Rolex Submariner and the Sea-Dweller had 40-mm cases. The Sea-Dweller, however, had a thicker case, giving it increased water resistance. As a result, the Rolex Sea-Dweller was considered the brand’s ultimate professional diving tool watch for a long time.
In addition to these functional aspects, many luxury watch buyers were interested in the Rolex Sea-Dweller because it respects the perfect 40-mm size but perfectly fits larger wrists thanks to its slightly bulkier profile. On top of that, the watch comes with a date window that does not feature the famous Rolex Cyclops lens – an iconic feature that not everyone loves. With the release of the Sea-Dweller Deepsea, Rolex introduced a truly next-level professional diver that surpasses the Sea-Dweller in terms of functional specs. Moreover, it is also bigger at 44 mm. Thus, people looking for a bulky luxury statement turned to the Deepsea. This pretty much left the Sea-Dweller in a state of limbo.
From 2014 to 2017, Rolex produced the 40-mm ref. 116600, a watch with all the modern Submariner features like a Maxi dial and ceramic bezel but with a much higher price tag. As a result, it was not a commercial success because it simply was not a suitable alternative to the Submariner. Rolex made the strategic move to increase the Sea-Dweller’s size to 43 mm and to up the list of specs to set it further apart from the Sub. As such, it became less attractive for the people who were actually looking for a Sub alternative. Plus, Rolex already had a larger diver in place for people looking for a bigger diver with the Deepsea. While the classic Rolex Sea-Dweller is definitely more subtle than the Deepsea, it is still a large watch. I’d much prefer a smaller Sea-Dweller and a return to it being the “big” brother of the Submariner rather than a random diver between the Submariner and the Deepsea. Of course, I realize that this is purely a personal preference rather than something that will actually happen…
3. Rolex Milgauss
The last pick for this list is the Rolex Milgauss. I mentioned the Milgauss above because it shares its case with the Air-King. Another thing it shares with the Air-King is that it’s a quirky watch. The Rolex Milgauss premiered in 1956 as a watch for engineers that could withstand magnetic forces up to 1,000 gauss. The timepiece was targeted at people who worked in power plants, medical facilities, and research labs where there are strong magnetic fields. The first Milgauss references have become much sought-after collector’s items as they are quite rare. They were only ever produced in small numbers due to being such a specific watch.
The current Milgauss ref. 116400 was introduced in 2007. It marked the first time that the Milgauss name returned to the Rolex collection in twenty years. Despite its modern presence, the model is still very quirky compared to its siblings. The current Rolex Milgauss is available in two different dial colors, but both feature a green-colored sapphire crystal, a standout orange lightning bolt second hand, and other orange details. The first is a black dial version, which offers a lot of contrast against the orange accents. The second features a brilliant “Z-blue” dial, making it even quirkier.
Compared to the Rolex Air-King, the Milgauss is a watch that completely makes sense in terms of storytelling and its place in the brand’s portfolio. That is why I love the watch, and I would love to add a black-dial version to my collection. However, since the current Milgauss has been around for 15 years, I would not be surprised if Rolex was ready to update it. In all honesty, I don’t know how they could improve the current Milgauss – I really love the current version. But if there is one company I would trust to update an icon with all the respect it deserves, it is Rolex. That is what has made the brand the most successful luxury watch brand in the world. I, for one, can’t wait to find out what’s next!
